As a major cotton producer and exporter for Western brands, Pakistan plays a central role in the global supply chain, driven by economic pressures to offer low production costs and lax regulations. In 2023, Pakistan produced approximately 887,000 tons of pre-consumer textile waste and imported over 800,000 tons of second-hand clothing, much of it ending up in landfills or informal recycling streams. The textile sector accounts for roughly 9.5% of Pakistan’s industrial greenhouse gas emissions.

In agriculturally vital regions like Punjab, textile production significantly impacts land and water resources, with the production of cotton and denim being extremely water and energy-intensive. Weaving, bleaching and dyeing release harmful chemicals and untreated effluents into the environment, leading to marine ecotoxicity, soil degradation and serious health risks for local communities. Rivers such as the Ravi, once vital to farming, are now heavily contaminated by industrial runoff linked to the textile industry. The production of just one pair of jeans can require up to 7,500 litres of water, an alarming burden for water-scarce countries, including Pakistan.  Meanwhile, farmers face worsening challenges from land degradation and water scarcity, further accelerating the loss of fertile land and deepening environmental crises. The unsustainable use of natural resources highlights the urgent need to consider local environmental conditions in global fashion supply chains. 

Pakistan’s Informal Recycling Sector and Greenwashing

In cities such as Satiana and Karachi, the informal recycling sector depends heavily on low-paid, unprotected female labour, who sort chemically treated waste without proper safety measures. With 350 to 450 small-scale recycling units operating without regulation, traceability and compliance are nearly impossible. Meanwhile, less than 1% of clothing is recycled into new garments – a stark case of greenwashing. Without Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) laws, brands face no obligation to manage their waste, leaving countries like Pakistan to shoulder the cost of a system built on exploitation.

Zille Huma – Sustainable Fashion Production in the Global South

In a fashion system that thrives on overproduction and disposability, Zille Huma stands out as a designer rooted in resistance. Born in a small agricultural village in Punjab, Zille Huma’s work, particularly for her slow fashion brand Xile, is inseparable from the land she comes from – a land now rapidly vanishing under the pressures of industrialization and climate change. Zille has witnessed firsthand the devastating impact of urban expansion in Pakistan: fast fashion labour exploitation, agricultural land replaced by factories, and rivers run dry and polluted. Her work is an urgent response to these transformations.

Zille was the first in her village to pursue a creative career, studying design at PIFD (Pakistan Institute of Fashion and Design) – where she now teaches – and later becoming the first Pakistani woman from her region to receive a full scholarship to Parsons School of Design in New York, where she completed her MFA in fashion. Her time abroad, surrounded by the concrete skyline of Manhattan, only deepened her attachment to the green landscapes of home. Her debut collection,  rich in traditional hand embroidery, deadstock textiles, and reclaimed materials,  bridges the tension between the industrial and the natural, the East and West.  Zille displays her rare dual perspective: the deep-rooted connection to the land and a first-hand awareness of the modern challenges facing the fashion industry. For her, sustainability is a personal and political responsibility.

As a designer, Zille Huma sees the environmental impact of textile waste in Pakistan as urgent. “Water pollution from untreated dye and chemical runoff, massive landfill accumulation from synthetic fabrics, and excessive resource use in production,” she explains, are among the most pressing challenges.

These issues, she notes, are worsened by poor infrastructure and low public awareness, underscoring the need for sustainable design to become not just a choice but a necessity.

In her Lahore studio, Zille centres her work around waste-conscious design, upcycling, and the revival of indigenous craft. “Every scrap has a story,” she says. “I don’t see waste – I see possibility.” Her practice is grounded in using what already exists – deadstock fabrics, recycled textiles, and traditional handwoven materials like khaddar and organic cotton, while employing natural dyes and avoiding polluting chemical processes. These materials, she explains, are essential for reducing fashion’s reliance on synthetic fibres and chemically intensive processes, which are often responsible for high water consumption and environmental pollution.

By sourcing locally and avoiding industrial production lines, Zille also minimizes her carbon footprint and supports Pakistan’s struggling agricultural and artisanal economies. “Using handwoven and locally produced fabrics is not just environmentally responsible – it’s a way of keeping our heritage alive,” she says. Her collections, some of which take up to six months to produce, are built with this philosophy, favouring slow, intentional design over trend-driven turnover. 

Across the ocean, Hawa Patel is building a parallel solution rooted in community, faith, and circular fashion. With Apis Closet, a U.S.-based South Asian outfit rental platform set to launch in Summer 2025, she directly challenges the linear model of “buy, wear, discard” that dominates diaspora weddings and celebrations. Instead of importing expensive, one-wear garments, Apis Closet offers a system to a circular model of “rent, party, repeat”, reducing demand for new materials and extending the life of traditional outfits. By making South Asian fashion more accessible, inclusive, and reusable, Apis Closet brings cultural pride into the heart of the sustainability conversation. 

Api’s Closet tackles the environmental and financial costs of traditional occasionwear. “Many South Asian outfits are imported, worn once, and forgotten,” Hawa explains. This issue is especially pronounced in South Asian weddings, which often span multiple days and events, creating pressure for attendees to wear a different, often brand-new outfit for each function.

Not only is that wasteful, “it is disrespectful to those who work so hard to make the pieces.” By participating in the circular economy, Apis Closet aims to reduce demand for virgin materials and keep garments out of landfills, offering a practical, low-waste solution especially relevant to Muslim and South Asian communities. 

The environmental stakes are clear. “Renting vs. buying new is taking a step to break away from the single-use consumption and waste models that are the norm for society today,” she says. In many diaspora communities, traditional outfits are imported at high costs and worn only once. “By renting, the average consumer is reducing their waste contribution. Renting reduces the constant need to buy new fashion, thus reducing overconsumption.” 

Hawa’s approach is shaped deeply by her faith and cultural identity. “ I believe it is my duty as a Muslim to not be a part of the degradation of the planet and society, at the hands of what I work and love the most- fashion.” For her, sustainability is a moral and spiritual commitment: “I have been blessed with life and I cannot justify using it to overconsume and rot the planet.”Her critique extends beyond personal consumption to the structural injustices in global supply chains. She emphasizes the need for ethical sourcing, traceability, and fair production for regions in the Global South that bear the brunt of fast fashion’s costs. Apis Closet’s sourcing partnerships prioritize small-batch artisan designers and responsible production, moving from mass manufacturing to intentional, value-driven fashion. Social sustainability, she says, is about championing artisans and giving their work the longevity and appreciation it deserves.

While she acknowledges that some parts of the fashion industry are making progress, particularly through ESG (Environmental, Social, and Governance) strategies adopted by retailers regardless of local law requirements, she is clear that deeper, systemic change is still needed. “Large-scale change will need to come from within because governments, especially in fashion-producing countries, historically have not passed legislation which protects the environment or garment workers.”

A just fashion future requires global accountability through stronger regulation and reparative justice, alongside local innovation such as the work of Zille Huma and Hawa Patel. Their efforts show how Muslim and South Asian communities can lead the way in building a fashion system rooted in cultural integrity, sustainability, and care.

The post Resisting Fast Fashion: Voices from Pakistan and Diaspora appeared first on Muslim Climate Watch.

Since the turn of the century, “fast fashion” has defined companies in the fashion industry that put profit over people and the planet. These companies favour lower-quality materials to make cheaper products with shorter lifespans. The result is consumers buying more clothes that they wear fewer times. In fact, Americans are purchasing four times more clothing now than they did in 2000. 65% end up in landfills within a year.

The environmental damage of this clothing waste extends from the pollution of land and waterways at production sites to global oceans where 9% of microplastics come from clothing. It’s anticipated that clothes made from polyester will increase in 2025 to three times the amount produced in 2007–the year when polyester became the world’s dominant fibre.  

Read More: Islamophobia, Housing Apartheid, and Climate Vulnerability in India

With so many fashion companies on the market, it can be hard to discern which are engaging in unsustainable and unethical production practices. One rule of thumb is reading the tag to see which companies produce clothing in countries with lax labour laws, particularly Vietnam, India, China and Bangladesh. By outsourcing this production to countries like these, clothing companies reduce their production costs and limit their legal liability to unethical labor practices. 

Source: Blum Center for Developing Economies, UC Berkeley, 2019

Muslims & Other Marginalized Minorities Working In the Indian Garment Industry

India is the world’s second-largest manufacturer and exporter of clothing in the world, with the United States and European Union accounting for nearly half of total clothing exports. Nearly 13 million people are formally employed in factories, with millions more employed informally in home-based settings. These informally employed, home-based workers often manage the “finishing touches” of garments including hand embroidery, bead and sequin work, and buttons. 

Source: Blum Center for Developing Economies, UC Berkeley, 2019

A 2019 study by the Blum Center for Developing Economies at UC Berkeley researched the exploitation of women and girls in the home-based garment sector across India and found that of these home-based workers, 85% work exclusively on products destined for the United States and the European Union. The report also found that:

• 99.3% of the workers were Muslim or of a minority community (Scheduled Caste)
• 99.2% worked for below minimum wage in conditions of forced labour as defined under Indian law
• 95.5% of the workers were female.

The lack of visibility of these workers in the reported supply chains of these products underscores how fashion companies ignore rampant exploitation in their labour force, including children. Another study showed that 36% of the children received no payment for their work in the home-based garment industry in Delhi.

In 2014, Prime Minister Narendra Modi launched the “Make in India” campaign to bolster India’s status as a global leader in manufacturing–a title that China has held for decades. But in racing to claim larger shares of the global garment industry, both India and China besmirch their reputations through exploitative practices.

Forced Labor of Uyghur Muslims in China

China’s exploitation of Uyghurs and other minorities has been well documented by investigative reporting and deemed by the United Nations Human Rights Council as committing “crimes against humanity.” Not only has China forcibly removed Uyghur Muslims from their homes and into labour camps, but they’re also attempting to erase their culture. 

Source: Human Rights Watch, 2024

From manufacturing and garment-making to cotton picking in the Xinjiang region, Uyghur Muslims toil to produce the majority of the world’s clothes including 20% of the world’s cotton. As a result, “virtually the entire [global] apparels industry is tainted by forced Uyghur and Turkic Muslim labour.” 

Read More: Reclaiming Zuhd: Embracing Minimalism in a Wasteful World

Prominent fashion companies–including both fast fashion and luxury brands–have been publicly named and shamed for their complicity in engaging Uyghur forced labour in their supply chains. The list of companies includes Shein who several rights groups have accused of allegedly using forced labour of Uyghur Muslims in its supply chain. Some companies have taken steps to change their sourcing, but many have not. Several Western governments including those of the United States, the European Union, the United Kingdom, and Canada, have imposed sanctions. Yet, China continues to deny committing human rights abuses towards Uyghurs. 

Even with China and India’s well-documented unethical labour practices, fashion companies in the region strive to maintain business as usual. They will continue to dominate the industry until they start pursuing sustainable triple-bottom-line business strategies that value profits along with people and the planet. Despite the plethora of evidence pointing to successful business models that are also sustainable and ethical, the rhetoric of there being little incentive for businesses to change or reveal the truth of their production practices will continue. However, consumers worldwide can chart a different course by demanding a change.

Changing Consumer Habits

Fast fashion leaves an indelible mark on the planet, and it is marred by rampant labour exploitation. The demand and rapid production of garments require significant amounts of raw materials, which causes habitat loss, excessive water use, and pollutes local land, air, and water. It’s estimated the industry is responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions.   

Shifting consumer habits away from fast fashion is an important step towards reducing the industry’s impact on the environment and putting an end to labour exploitation. Here are some steps you can take to curb fast fashion and be a part of the solution:

• Buy less, and more thoughtfully, including upcycling or purchasing second-hand
• Choose higher quality, non-polyester products and wear them for longer
• Repair, resell, or repurpose what you own instead of throwing it away in landfills
• When buying new, prioritize local stores or those with high sustainability and ethical standards
• Hold fast-fashion companies accountable for their unsustainable and unethical practices while avoiding purchasing from them unless practices change positively.

The post Unveiling the Exploitation in the Global Fast Fashion Industry appeared first on Muslim Climate Watch.