Since the turn of the century, “fast fashion” has defined companies in the fashion industry that put profit over people and the planet. These companies favour lower-quality materials to make cheaper products with shorter lifespans. The result is consumers buying more clothes that they wear fewer times. In fact, Americans are purchasing four times more clothing now than they did in 2000. 65% end up in landfills within a year.

The environmental damage of this clothing waste extends from the pollution of land and waterways at production sites to global oceans where 9% of microplastics come from clothing. It’s anticipated that clothes made from polyester will increase in 2025 to three times the amount produced in 2007–the year when polyester became the world’s dominant fibre.  

Read More: Islamophobia, Housing Apartheid, and Climate Vulnerability in India

With so many fashion companies on the market, it can be hard to discern which are engaging in unsustainable and unethical production practices. One rule of thumb is reading the tag to see which companies produce clothing in countries with lax labour laws, particularly Vietnam, India, China and Bangladesh. By outsourcing this production to countries like these, clothing companies reduce their production costs and limit their legal liability to unethical labor practices. 

Source: Blum Center for Developing Economies, UC Berkeley, 2019

Muslims & Other Marginalized Minorities Working In the Indian Garment Industry

India is the world’s second-largest manufacturer and exporter of clothing in the world, with the United States and European Union accounting for nearly half of total clothing exports. Nearly 13 million people are formally employed in factories, with millions more employed informally in home-based settings. These informally employed, home-based workers often manage the “finishing touches” of garments including hand embroidery, bead and sequin work, and buttons. 

Source: Blum Center for Developing Economies, UC Berkeley, 2019

A 2019 study by the Blum Center for Developing Economies at UC Berkeley researched the exploitation of women and girls in the home-based garment sector across India and found that of these home-based workers, 85% work exclusively on products destined for the United States and the European Union. The report also found that:

• 99.3% of the workers were Muslim or of a minority community (Scheduled Caste)
• 99.2% worked for below minimum wage in conditions of forced labour as defined under Indian law
• 95.5% of the workers were female.

The lack of visibility of these workers in the reported supply chains of these products underscores how fashion companies ignore rampant exploitation in their labour force, including children. Another study showed that 36% of the children received no payment for their work in the home-based garment industry in Delhi.

In 2014, Prime Minister Narendra Modi launched the “Make in India” campaign to bolster India’s status as a global leader in manufacturing–a title that China has held for decades. But in racing to claim larger shares of the global garment industry, both India and China besmirch their reputations through exploitative practices.

Forced Labor of Uyghur Muslims in China

China’s exploitation of Uyghurs and other minorities has been well documented by investigative reporting and deemed by the United Nations Human Rights Council as committing “crimes against humanity.” Not only has China forcibly removed Uyghur Muslims from their homes and into labour camps, but they’re also attempting to erase their culture. 

Source: Human Rights Watch, 2024

From manufacturing and garment-making to cotton picking in the Xinjiang region, Uyghur Muslims toil to produce the majority of the world’s clothes including 20% of the world’s cotton. As a result, “virtually the entire [global] apparels industry is tainted by forced Uyghur and Turkic Muslim labour.” 

Read More: Reclaiming Zuhd: Embracing Minimalism in a Wasteful World

Prominent fashion companies–including both fast fashion and luxury brands–have been publicly named and shamed for their complicity in engaging Uyghur forced labour in their supply chains. The list of companies includes Shein who several rights groups have accused of allegedly using forced labour of Uyghur Muslims in its supply chain. Some companies have taken steps to change their sourcing, but many have not. Several Western governments including those of the United States, the European Union, the United Kingdom, and Canada, have imposed sanctions. Yet, China continues to deny committing human rights abuses towards Uyghurs. 

Even with China and India’s well-documented unethical labour practices, fashion companies in the region strive to maintain business as usual. They will continue to dominate the industry until they start pursuing sustainable triple-bottom-line business strategies that value profits along with people and the planet. Despite the plethora of evidence pointing to successful business models that are also sustainable and ethical, the rhetoric of there being little incentive for businesses to change or reveal the truth of their production practices will continue. However, consumers worldwide can chart a different course by demanding a change.

Changing Consumer Habits

Fast fashion leaves an indelible mark on the planet, and it is marred by rampant labour exploitation. The demand and rapid production of garments require significant amounts of raw materials, which causes habitat loss, excessive water use, and pollutes local land, air, and water. It’s estimated the industry is responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions.   

Shifting consumer habits away from fast fashion is an important step towards reducing the industry’s impact on the environment and putting an end to labour exploitation. Here are some steps you can take to curb fast fashion and be a part of the solution:

• Buy less, and more thoughtfully, including upcycling or purchasing second-hand
• Choose higher quality, non-polyester products and wear them for longer
• Repair, resell, or repurpose what you own instead of throwing it away in landfills
• When buying new, prioritize local stores or those with high sustainability and ethical standards
• Hold fast-fashion companies accountable for their unsustainable and unethical practices while avoiding purchasing from them unless practices change positively.

The post Unveiling the Exploitation in the Global Fast Fashion Industry appeared first on Muslim Climate Watch.

Housing Apartheid in Delhi, the NCR

Delhi’s landscape is increasingly marred by a housing apartheid, fueled by a surge in Islamophobia. An example of the housing apartheid is evident in the town of Jamia Nagar, where, south of Delhi, the Muslim population survives without basic amenities and public services, deeming it a ‘Muslim ghetto’. Traditionally, ghettos are inhabited by disenfranchised communities undergoing oppression by the state. 

Through various business practices by brokers and agents, the housing divide is maintained and upheld in the NCR. Landlords and brokers will often refuse to accommodate Muslim families when seeking housing in largely Hindu areas. Brokers will often direct these tenants overtly toward areas with a high-Muslim majority by telling them no other houses are available. Brokers also decide where to place tenants based on their names, revealing their religious identity and enabling discriminatory practices. Locals report that Hindu families tend to relocate when Muslim families move into their neighbourhoods, expressing a preference to live in a “safe place where there are no Muslims”. 

As a result of this ongoing housing apartheid and growing fears of religious discrimination and attacks, Muslims are evacuating Hindu-majority posh areas to move to Muslim-majority ghettos, like Jamia Nagar, an area in South Delhi with limited access to basics such as running water and electricity, for fear of persecution. With recent extreme weather experienced in India, access to drinking water is vital for preventing heat strokes, yet 95.1% of people in these ghettos struggle to obtain the necessary water to stay cool during the summer. The absence of adequate housing and basic resources leaves Muslim minorities in India disproportionately affected by climate change.

Islamophobia Exacerbating Climate Vulnerability

Since PM Modi and his Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) came to power in 2014, hate crimes against religious minorities have soared, with new discriminatory laws and policies constantly being implemented. Under this Hindu nationalist (or Hindutva) government, the use of bulldozers to demolish Muslim properties has become disturbingly common, echoing tactics used in the Israeli occupation of Palestine. Hindutva forces believe that Muslims have no rightful place in India, a sentiment propagated by the Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh (RSS). These demolitions, including mosques and Muslim-owned shops, are carried out under false pretenses of removing “illegal and unauthorized buildings”, forcing many Muslims into ghettos lacking essential services to protect against rising climate impacts.

Muslim ghettos across India are plagued by inadequate infrastructure. A significant portion of these communities live without access to clean water and reliable electricity. Schools and parks are also scarce, with most areas lacking sewage or waste management systems. Delhi is experiencing rising temperatures and extreme weather events, exacerbated by urban factors like construction, traffic, and a lack of green spaces. Temperatures have been recorded at a high of 52.3°C (126.1°F). For Muslims living in inadequate housing, these extreme conditions pose severe physical health risks. Proper housing plays a crucial role in protecting individuals from the adverse effects of heat and climate change. Yet, many Muslim ghettos lack this fundamental protection – affecting their mental health as well. 

The discrimination and segregation Muslim communities endure limit their access to resources and support, making them more vulnerable to extreme weather events and rising temperatures. Studies estimate that 17.8% of all annual deaths in India are due to air pollution. Mass displacement is another by-product of the climate crisis, whereby annual floods, heatwaves, and air pollution cause unbridled disruption to communities, affecting millions. 

Climate Justice in India

In his recent book, Climate Justice in India, author Prakash Kashwan found that the “urban poor, Dalits, Adivasis, Muslims, and other marginalized people with little political voice”, are worst hit by air pollution and the climate crisis across India. With a lack of coverage in the national media, the effects of the climate crisis unfairly borne by these groups are largely denied and ignored.

The deadly intersection of housing apartheid amidst rising Islamophobia in Delhi, the NCR and across India is pushing Muslim communities into ghettos, where they face disproportionate impacts of climate change. Addressing these intertwined issues requires integrated efforts focusing on improving living conditions, combating discrimination, and enhancing climate resilience. Without acknowledging and acting on these intersectional challenges, particularly rising Islamophobia and its implications on the climate-vulnerable communities, India cannot deliver a more just and equitable society for all.

The post Islamophobia, Housing Apartheid, and Climate Vulnerability in India appeared first on Muslim Climate Watch.